One Day in Kyoto — The Perfect Itinerary

7am — Nishiki Market (the "Kyoto Kitchen")

Nishiki Market is a 400-metre covered market running from Teramachi to Nishiki-koji. The street opens around 8am; by 10am it is packed. Go early for the tofu shops, the pickled vegetable stalls, the fresh dashi (bonito broth) being made in front of you. Miyaraki: the Japanese pancake stalls. Nishiki Tea Center: the first real tea merchant in the market. The market is also called "Kyoto's kitchen" for the sheer density of food producers.

9am — Fushimi Inari Taisha

Fushimi Inari is the shrine of Inari, the god of rice, sake, and foxes. The senbon torii (thousand vermilion torii gates) are the walkable path up the mountain: 4km of tunnels of orange gates, each donated by a business. The lower path (30 minutes, no crowds before 9am) is the essential experience. The full summit hike takes 2–3 hours and passes smaller shrines, fox statues, and city views. Go at 8am or in the evening for the light-through-the-gates experience.

12pm — Gion and Hanamikoji

Gion is Kyoto's preserved geisha district: wooden machiya townhouses, ochaya (teahouses), and the ochaya-san (geiko and maiko) who still work here. Walk Hanamikoji-dori north from Shijo, then west along the preserved lane of Philosopher's Walk. Lunch at Gion Kague (kaiseki) or the casual Chao Chao Gyoza (dumplings and ramen). Between 5pm and 6pm, you may see a maiko on her way to an appointment.

2pm — Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

The Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is 500 metres of bamboo forest on the western edge of Kyoto. Walk from the main entrance at Arashiyama Station through the grove to Tenryu-ji Temple (UNESCO World Heritage Site, garden designed around 1339). The morning light through the bamboo is the classic photograph. Late afternoon is quieter. The path continues to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji (2km further, 1,200 stone rakan statues) for something completely different.

5pm — Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion)

Kinkaku-ji (正式名稱: Rokuon-ji) is the Zen Buddhist temple covered in gold leaf: 2 floors of pure architectural theatre. The reflection in the pond is the image you have seen in every photograph. The garden was built in 1397; the current structure is a 1955 reconstruction (the original was burned down by a monk in 1950). Entry ¥500. Close at 5pm in winter, 5:30pm in summer. Combine with the nearby Ryoan-ji (rock garden, ¥500, closes at 5pm).

7pm — Pontocho Alley dinner

Pontocho is Kyoto's narrowest and most atmospheric dining street: a 500-metre alley running parallel to the Kamo River, one block wide, lit by lantern light. Gion Nanba: kaiseki in a traditional machiya. Kikunoi: three Michelin stars, one of the most famous kaiseki restaurants in the world, book 3–6 months ahead. For the affordable option: Honke Owariya (since 1465, buckwheat noodles, the oldest soba restaurant in Japan).