JR Pass: buy it only if the math works
The Japan Rail Pass (7 days ¥50,000 / £260, 14 days ¥80,000 / £415) covers all JR trains, including the Shinkansen. It is only worth it if you are doing long-distance travel: Tokyo–Kyoto return alone (¥13,320 each way) gets you close to the 7-day break-even. For local Tokyo travel, a Suica card (deposit ¥500, top up at any machine) with ¥2,000 loaded is sufficient. Download the Google Maps app: it works perfectly on Tokyo's trains and gives you real-time departure information.
Etiquette: the rules that matter
Tokyo has specific public behavior rules that are genuinely enforced by social pressure. No eating or drinking on the train (only water is tolerated). No speaking on the phone on the train. Queue at all times: at ticket machines, convenience stores, crossings. No tipping: anywhere, ever. Do not walk while eating in public — finish first, then walk. At temples and shrines: bow before entering torii gates, wash your hands at the purification fountain before praying.
Cash: always carry it
Tokyo is still a cash society. Many restaurants (especially in the izakayas and ramen alleys), temples, temples shops, and some hotels do not accept cards. ¥10,000–15,000 in cash per person per day is a good working amount. 7-Eleven ATMs accept international cards and give the best exchange rates. Some banks do currency exchange but the queues are long. Do not rely on Apple Pay or contactless in small establishments.
Convenience stores: your 24-hour support system
7-Eleven, FamilyMart, and Lawson are the three chains. All three have English-language apps, accept international cards, and have 24-hour services (some with pharmacists, printing, ticket sales). The deli items (fried chicken, onigiri, sandwiches) are fresh and excellent. The FamilyMart 100-yen floor is everything for ¥100. ATMs are inside every store.
Where to stay: skip the tourist strips
Shinjuku is convenient but loud. Asakusa has the best old-Tokyo character, the cheapest hotels, and direct train links to Narita Airport. Nakameguro (on the Hibiya line) is quieter, beautiful in cherry blossom season, and has excellent restaurants. Shimokitazawa: the youth culture neighborhood, cheap hostels, live music venues, vintage shops. All three are significantly cheaper than Shinjuku.
Walk off the meal with an audio guide
Every neighborhood has a walking route with stories. Free previews on every guide.
Planning the trip?
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