Food Guide to New York City — Where and What to Eat

Lower East Side — the original New York food story

Katz's Delicatessen (since 1888): pastrami on rye, foot-long, carved at the counter. The rule is: you get a table ticket when you walk in, you point to what you want on the menu, and you pay on the way out. This is not fast. It is also not optional. Russ & Daughters (same street, since 1914): bagels, lox, whitefish salad. Kellogg's NYC: tasting menu cereal, ridiculous concept, actually wonderful breakfast.

Midtown — power lunches and global food courts

The Halal Guys (53rd and 6th): the original food cart that became an empire. Lamb over rice, white sauce, spicy sauce. Xi'an Famous Foods: hand-pulled noodles, liangpi cold skin noodles. The Times Square location is overrun with tourists; the Flushing location is the real thing.

Chinatown — real food at real prices

New York's Chinatown is one of the oldest in the Western hemisphere. Nom Wah Tea Parlor (1930): turnip cake, shrimp dumplings. Golden Unicorn: dim sum cart service, Cantonese classics. Scorpion Bowl at Buddha Bodai: vegetarian dim sum that fooled the entire city. Walk Canal Street for bargains; walk Mott Street for the food.

Brooklyn — the real restaurant revolution

Di Fara Pizza (Midwood): Dom DeMarco has been making pizza since 1964. One man. One oven. The wait is real. Peter Luger Steak House (Williamsburg, since 1887): dry-aged porterhouse. Cash only. Juliana's Pizza: right next door, newer, arguably better. The rivalry is a New York institution.

Queens — the food capital of the city

Jackson Heights is arguably the most diverse food neighborhood in the world. Tong (Bangladesh), New York Restaurant (Uyghur), Uncle George's (Greek). Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare (Hell's Kitchen, three Michelin stars): $335 tasting menu, 18 seats, the best meal in New York if you can get in.