One Day in Tokyo — The Perfect Itinerary

7am — Toyosu Market (outer market)

The replacement for Tsukiji's outer market. The Toyosu Market outer market opens at 5am for the seafood auction watchers; the retail and food stalls open from 8am. Sushi Zanmai (across the road): the tuna is cut at 5am and on your plate by 8am. The wagyu beef skewer from the stall near Gate 2 is the best £4 you will spend in Tokyo. Arrive by 8am to miss the tour buses.

10am — Senso-ji Temple, Asakusa

Senso-ji is Tokyo's oldest temple (completed 645 AD) and the most visited spiritual site in the world. Walk through the Kaminarimon Gate (the Thunder Gate), past the Nakamise shopping street, to the main hall. The temple is Buddhist; the adjacent Asakusa-jinja is Shinto. Throw a coin, bow twice, clap twice, bow once. The morning light through the gate is worth arriving for.

12pm — Shibuya Crossing and Harajuku

The Shibuya Crossing: stand at the Starbucks on the second floor of the Tsutaya building to watch the world's busiest pedestrian intersection from above. Walk through the Shibuya shopping district to Omotesando, the tree-lined avenue that leads to Harajuku. Takeshita Street for youth culture and crepes; Meiji-jingu Shrine for silence and cedar forests. Combine the two in one afternoon.

3pm — Akihabara (Electric Town)

Akihabara is the global center of anime, manga, and gaming culture. Yodobashi Camera (8 floors of electronics and entertainment) is the anchor. The back streets have the smaller, stranger shops: the maid cafés, the retro game stores, the figure shops. The Radio Center building has three floors of parts, cables, and components for everything electronic. You do not need to buy anything to have a remarkable afternoon here.

6pm — Tokyo Tower and Roppongi

Tokyo Tower (1958, 333 meters): the original observation deck that predates the Tokyo Skytree by 53 years. The orange-and-white livery is a landmark. Dinner in Roppongi Hills: Afuri for yuzu ramen, Takerou for kaiseki. Walk back through Roppongi's art district — the Mori Art Museum (52nd floor, open until 10pm) has evening views at half the price of the tower.

9pm — Shinjuku and Golden Gai

Golden Gai: 35 narrow alleys containing 200 tiny bars, each seating six to twelve people. This is Tokyo's last surviving pre-war bar district. Walk through without drinking if you prefer; the architecture alone is worth it. End at Kabukicho: the neon, the pachinko parlours, the robot restaurant (touristy but genuinely spectacular). Walk back through Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, which is open until 9pm.