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Cannery Row

Steinbeck turned this street into a novel, then the sardines ran out and the canneries fell silent.

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Quick answer

Cannery Row is the historic waterfront street in Monterey made famous by John Steinbeck's 1945 novel, set in its sardine canning heyday. At its peak in the early 1940s more than 30 canneries lined the street; the last one, the Hovden Cannery, closed in 1973 and is now the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

1Monterey's canning industry began in 1902
2The street was nicknamed Cannery Row as early as 1918
3At its peak in the early 1940s, more than 30 canneries and reduction plants lined the street

Full transcript

1

The Street With a Thousand Whistles

Monterey began canning sardines in 1902, and within two decades the shoreline was a solid row of factories, each with its own whistle to call the workers. By the early nineteen forties more than thirty canneries lined the street, and the neighborhood had already been nicknamed Cannery Row for years. In 1945 John Steinbeck published a novel named for the street and made it famous forever; in 1958 the city made it official, renaming Ocean View Avenue to match the book.

2

The Fish That Went Away

Then the fish stopped coming. In 1946 the fleet landed 142,282 tons of sardines; the next year the catch was 26,818 tons. Canneries closed one after another — at the peak the plants had employed three to four thousand people, nearly half of Monterey's population. Hovden, the last cannery, hung on until 1973 by canning squid. Its old building is now the Monterey Bay Aquarium, which opened in 1984 on the same spot where the boilers once cooked the day's catch.

3

What to Do

Walk the row from the aquarium end back toward the harbor and read the buildings — the old brick and the iron rails set in the pavement are the real museum. The Pacific Biological Laboratories building, where the marine biologist Ed Ricketts worked, still stands; he was the model for Doc in the novel. Then go inside the aquarium, where the old Hovden boiler house is preserved inside a building full of living fish. Stand in front of that boiler and picture the street in 1946, when the season's catch topped 142,282 tons.

The checkable facts

  • Monterey's canning industry began in 1902
  • The street was nicknamed Cannery Row as early as 1918
  • At its peak in the early 1940s, more than 30 canneries and reduction plants lined the street
  • John Steinbeck's novel Cannery Row was published in 1945
  • The street was originally named Ocean View Avenue and was officially renamed Cannery Row in 1958
  • In 1946 the sardine catch was 142,282 tons; a year later it dropped to 26,818 tons
  • The canneries employed 3,000 to 4,000 people at their peak, nearly half of Monterey's population of about 10,000
  • Hovden was the last cannery to close, shutting down in 1973 after staying open by canning squid
  • The Monterey Bay Aquarium opened in 1984 on the site of the Hovden Cannery, built around its preserved boiler house
  • Pacific Biological Laboratories, managed by Edward F. Ricketts, was the model for Doc's lab in Steinbeck's novels
  • Steinbeck and Ed Ricketts collaborated on and co-authored the book Sea of Cortez (1941)
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Frequently asked

What happened to the sardines in Cannery Row?
The catch collapsed after World War II, probably from a combination of overfishing, changing ocean conditions, and natural boom-and-bust cycles. In 1946 the fleet landed 142,282 tons; a year later it was 26,818 tons. The canneries closed one by one, and the fish have never returned in numbers.
Why did the canneries close?
The sardine population crashed in the late 1940s, and the catch fell so fast that the factories could not survive. Hovden, the last cannery, hung on until 1973 by processing squid. By then investors were already buying up the old buildings as the waterfront turned toward tourism.
Is the Monterey Bay Aquarium really inside the old cannery?
Yes. The aquarium, which opened in 1984, was built on the site of the Hovden Cannery and constructed around its old boiler house, which is preserved as a public exhibit. The aquarium sits at the north end of Cannery Row.
Who was Doc in Cannery Row?
A marine biologist named Ed Ricketts, who ran a biological supply house called Pacific Biological Laboratories on the street. He was Steinbeck's close friend and the model for the character Doc in Cannery Row and Sweet Thursday. The two men even collaborated on a book about the Sea of Cortez.
Is Cannery Row still worth visiting?
Yes, but it is now a tourist waterfront rather than the gritty street in the novel. The original brick factories survive behind the shop fronts, and the aquarium at the end is one of the best in the world. Come for the buildings and the history; the restaurants and hotels are the bonus.

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